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Zara is part of the biggest fashion company in the world. Meet the other brands it owns.

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Oysho

  • Zara is one of the best-known global fashion brands, with more than 2,000 stores around the world. 
  • The chain is owned by Inditex, a Spanish retail conglomerate that operates seven other brands. 
  • Find out more about these trendy brands below. 

Zara has become one of the best-known and most successful fashion brands in the world. However, US consumers tend to know little about not only the parent company driving its success, but also its sister brands around the world. 

Since Zara's billionaire founder Amancio Ortega opened the first Zara store in northern Spain in 1975, it has grown to become an enormous, 2,000-store chain, with a presence in 96 countries around the world. 

In that time, Ortega has also grown his business by acquiring and launching other fashion brands, which now fall under the umbrella of Inditex. Inditex is considered the largest fashion retailer on the planet, turning out more than $30 billion in sales in 2017.

While many of these other Inditex brands do not currently have a presence in the United States, they are found in hundreds of countries around the world and make up a mammoth combined store count of 7,422 locations. 

Find about more about these brands below:

SEE ALSO: Zara has a fleet of secret stores where it masters its shop design and plots how to get you to spend money

Bershka

Bershka is the second-largest chain by store count in Inditex's entire operation. It has over 1,000 stores in 70 markets, and its sales represent 9% of the total revenue for the whole group.

This low-cost brand is targeted at younger male and female shoppers. Girls' T-shirts start at $7.90, and jeans start at $29.90. 

In October 2017, it opened its first store in the US, a pop-up in New York's Soho neighborhood. 



Massimo Dutti

Massimo Dutti was originally a men's fashion label that was acquired by Inditex in 1991. Several years later, it added women's wear to its offering, and in 2003, kids also joined. 

This is Inditex's higher-end label, and it's targeted at an older customer. Prices are higher than at Zara, and the focus here is less on staying on trend but rather on creating more classic, timeless styles. 

It currently has 764 stores around the world. 



Oysho

Oysho doesn't currently have a store presence in the US, and much to the annoyance of some shoppers here, you are unable to order items online and have them delivered to a US address. 

Founded in 2001, Oysho specializes in women's wear, including lingerie, nightwear, swimwear, and athletics wear. 

It has 667 stores in 65 markets around the world. 



See the rest of the story at Business Insider

The 7 richest retail billionaires in the world (AMZN, WMT, LVMHY, ITX)

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Jeff Bezos Amazon

  • There's a fortune to be made in retail.
  • Forbes' 2019 ranking of the 20 richest people in the world features seven individuals who owe their billions to major retail brands.
  • Check out which noteworthy individuals made their money off companies like Amazon, Walmart, and Zara.

The realm of retail sure has produced a slew of billionaires.

At least, that's what Forbes' 2019 report on the 20 richest people in the world seems to indicate.

Read more: A day in the life of the richest person in the world, Jeff Bezos — who runs the second US company to join the $1 trillion club and still washes the dishes after dinner

Seven of the names on the list got their money from major companies in the retail space. The only industry that fared better was tech, which boasted 10 billionaires.

From Jeff Bezos to the surviving children of Sam Walton, check out which billionaires owe their vast fortunes to retail:

SEE ALSO: The incredible career of MacKenzie Bezos, an acclaimed writer who's been with billionaire husband Jeff Bezos since Amazon's first days

DON'T MISS: Jeff Bezos thinks there's not enough humans in the world for all the potential jobs, according to tech investor Sam Altman

SEE ALSO: A look inside the 25-year marriage of the richest couple in history, Jeff and MacKenzie Bezos — who met at work, were engaged in 3 months, and together own more land than almost anyone else in America

7. S. Robson "Rob" Walton

Final net worth: $44.3 billion

Origin of wealth: Walmart



6. Alice Walton

Final net worth: $44.4 billion

Origin of wealth: Walmart



5. Jim Walton

Final net worth: $44.6 billion

Origin of wealth: Walmart



See the rest of the story at Business Insider

Meet Amancio Ortega, the fiercely private Zara founder who's worth $62 billion and owns properties in Madrid, London, and New York City

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amancio ortega

He may be the sixth-richest person in the world, but few people know his name. Amancio Ortega is the Spanish billionaire behind Inditex, the world's largest clothing retailer that owns Zara, Pull&Bear, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, and Stradivarius, and other brands.

Ortega is worth an estimated $62.7 billion, according to Forbes.

The mysterious Zara founder was briefly the world's richest man back in 2015, Forbes reported. He bypassed the then-richest person, Bill Gates, when his net worth peaked to $80 billion as Zara's parent company Inditex's stock peaked.

But when the stock went back down, Ortega went back to being the world's second-richest man, a title he gained in June 2015. 

Read more: We went inside one of the sprawling factories where Zara makes its clothes. Here's how the world's biggest fashion retailer gets it done.

Despite Ortega's impressive net worth, many people have never heard of him. The 82-year-old Spaniard fiercely guards his privacy and gives few interviews to the press.

Ortega founded fast-fashion giant Zara with his then-wife Rosalia in 1975. Today, his retail company Inditex SA — which owns eight brands including Zara, Massimo Dutti, and Pull&Bear — has more than 7,500 stores around the world.

Ortega is surpassed in wealth by only five people: Jeff Bezos, Bill Gates, Warren Buffett, Bernard Arnault, and Carlos Slim Helu. But Bloomberg's data notes that since last year, Gates' net worth has decreased by $1.1 billion, while Ortega's has increased by an impressive $10.4 billion.

Ashley Lutz and Mallory Schlossberg contributed to an earlier version of this story.

SEE ALSO: Meet the Arnaults, the French billionaires who control luxury-goods empire LVMH, own villas on the French Riviera and in LA, and rub shoulders with models, royalty, and tech moguls

DON'T MISS: Meet the Ambanis, the richest family in Asia, who live in a $1 billion skyscraper and mingle with royals, politicians, and Bollywood stars

Amancio Ortega is the sixth-richest person in the world, with an estimated net worth of $67.9 billion.

Source:Bloomberg



Ortega owns 59% of Inditex, the world's largest clothing retailer that owns brands including Zara ...

Source: Bloomberg



... Pull&Bear, a teen-focused retailer with 970 stores in 76 markets around Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Asia, and South America ...

Source: Business Insider



See the rest of the story at Business Insider

Kylie Cosmetics, Nike, and Zara want shoppers to buy their products right on Instagram. Here's the full list of retailers that are giving early access to the game-changing service. (FB)

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instagram checkout

  • Instagram launched a checkout button this week, allowing users to shop without ever leaving the platform. 
  • Checkout on Instagram is currently being beta-tested with 23 brands. 
  • Instagram has partnered with some of the buzziest names in retail, including Kylie Cosmetics, Zara, and Outdoor Voices.

You can now shop on Instagram without ever leaving the app. 

On Tuesday, Instagram announced it had launched "Checkout on Instagram." Shoppers can tap an Instagram photo to see a "Checkout on Instagram" button, which lists the price of the item. Tapping the button allows users to select from various options like size and color, see similar items, and pay without leaving Instagram. 

Read more: 'It helps Facebook further fortify its walled garden': Instagram is testing in-app checkout to make shopping more seamless, but experts say it has a bigger agenda

However, shoppers won't be able to buy from just any brand with an Instagram page. Checkout on Instagram launched with 23 brands, including some of the buzziest, most Instagrammable names in retail.

Here are the 23 brands that you can now shop from without ever leaving the Instagram app:

SEE ALSO: These are the brands that Gen Z shops at most, according to a survey of more than 1,800 young Americans

Adidas

Instagram handle: @adidaswomen



Anastasia Beverly Hills

Instagram handle: @anastasiabeverlyhills



Balmain

Instagram handle: @balmain



See the rest of the story at Business Insider

This dress is now so common that there is an Instagram account devoted to spotting it — have you bought 'The Dress' yet?

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zara dress

  • A Zara dress has gone so viral that in Britain, it is simply referred to as "The Dress."
  • The dress is sold for around $70 or £39.99 at Zara. 
  • One stylist even created an Instagram account completely dedicated to spotting the dress. 
  • Visit INSIDER's homepage for more stories.

Zara has quickly risen in the ranks of popular clothing stores among young shoppers for its trendy and fashion-forward designs at an affordable price. And this summer, one design in particular from the chain has gone so viral that in Britain, it is simply being referred to as "the dress." And it has a whole Instagram devoted to spotting it.

According to The New York Times, the dress — which sells for $69.90 or £39.99 depending on your location — is described on Zara's website as a, "flowing, round neck dress with sleeves falling below the elbow. Featuring a ruffled hem and a buttoned opening in the back." It is available in size XS through XXL but as of the writing, appears to be sold out in the US.

One Instagram user was so inspired by the dress' popularity, in fact, that they started an Instagram account called "Hot 4 The Spot" that is focused on spotting people wearing the dress. The account's bio reads, "A safe space for *the dress*." 

@testickle’s mum here to steal your style (and probably your boyfriend)

A post shared by Hot 4 The Spot (@hot4thespot) on Jul 8, 2019 at 11:04pm PDT on

 

According to The New York Times, it is run by stylist Faye Oakenfull, who told the publication, "'The Dress' and I originally met on a set back in Easter when both the art director and makeup artist came in wearing it. I posted it on my Instagram story as an 'awkward fashion moment' […] It then started to escalate, with many people sending me their own sightings. After a few weeks it seemed to be so popular on my stories that I decided to start a new account to keep on top of the content."

Though the dress is ubiquitous around the UK, Oakenfull told The Times that she has an idea of the typical person who snaps the dress up.

META - A story 👯‍♀️ @jessikaeve

A post shared by Hot 4 The Spot (@hot4thespot) on Jul 4, 2019 at 11:25pm PDT on

 

"I can be pretty certain where she'll be hanging out at weekends," Oakenfull told them. "She loves a bottomless brunch, food markets, day festivals, tennis, baby showers (sometimes hers), hen dos, polo, work parties, weddings, rooftop bars and poolside prosecco. Most of all, she just really loves food shopping in [the British retailer] Marks & Spencer."

Harry Potter and The Full Spot Dress @rossjplatt

A post shared by Hot 4 The Spot (@hot4thespot) on Jun 26, 2019 at 11:16am PDT on

 

The account now has over 5,000 followers and is posting photos of the dress in various spots across the world regularly. It also regularly posts memes about peoples' seemingly undying love of the dress.

A post shared by Hot 4 The Spot (@hot4thespot) on

It's worth noting that some have taken issue with the account, according to The New York Times. While it often posts photos of people they have taken themselves, sometimes, the posts include photos taken of people seemingly without their knowledge, though their faces are not shown. 

"Let women wear the same dress or coat as everyone else. Let them meet their friends or go to the supermarket without fearing that they'll end up the butt someone else's joke online,"Sophie Benson wrote for Metro.

Despite criticism, the account is not the only of its kind. Though it appeared to be the first, there is also an account devoted to leopard midi skirts that were popping up in the US, particularly in New York City

INSIDER reached out to Zara for comment but did not immediately hear back.

Join the conversation about this story »

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The 15 richest people in the fashion industry, ranked

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arnaults rihanna lvmh fenty

Fashion is a $2.5 trillion global industry that has made its leading players, from designers and CEOs to founders and heiresses, very rich.

Business Insider has compiled a list of the richest people in the fashion industry, based on Forbes' Real Time Billionaires ranking — and the top 15 are worth a combined $395.6 billion.

The wealthiest person in fashion is Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH, the world's largest maker of luxury goods that's behind brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dom Perignon, Christian Dior, and as of November 2019, Tiffany & Co. Arnault is the world's third-richest person with an estimated net worth of $105.7 billion.

Others on the list include Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, the Japanese billionaire behind Uniqlo, and the Spanish retail mogul who owns Zara.

Read on for the 15 richest people in the fashion industry, ranked in ascending order.

Bobbie Edsor contributed to an earlier version of this story.

SEE ALSO: Bernard Arnault is the world's third-richest person and CEO of LVMH, which just finalized a deal to buy Tiffany. Here's how the French billionaire makes and spends his $100 billion fortune.

NOW READ: The 9 most valuable luxury brands in the world

15. Ding Shizhong: $5.8 billion

Ding Shizhong is the chairman and CEO of Anta Sports, one of China's largest sportswear makers.

Anta Sports, which owns brands including Fila, Descente, and Kingkow, made more than $3.4 billion in revenue in 2018.



14. Johann Rupert: $6.1 billion

Johann Rupert is the chairman of Compagnie Financiere Richemont, the Swiss luxury goods firm behind brands such as Cartier, Chloé, and Montblanc.

The South African billionaire founded Richemont as a spin-off of Rembrandt Group Limited (now Remgro Limited), a company founded by his father in the 1940s.



13. Sandra Ortega Mera: $6.6 billion

Sandra Ortega Mera is the daughter of Zara founder Amancio Ortega with his late ex-wife, Rosalia Mera.

Sandra inherited the title of Spain's richest woman after her mother's death. Sandra holds a roughly 4.5% stake in her father's company, Inditex, but she is not involved in the company, according to Forbes.



12. Ralph Lauren: $6.7 billion

The founder and former CEO of the eponymous American luxury fashion brand Ralph Lauren remains executive chairman of the label he started in the 1960s.

Lauren started designing neckties with a wider cut — branding them the "Polo" cut — and selling them in New York department stores while also working at the men's boutique Beau Brummell.

More than 50 years later, the internationally renowned brand brought in more than $6.1 billion in revenue in 2018.



11. Anders Holch Povlsen: $8.1 billion

Anders Holch Povlsen is the CEO and sole owner of Danish fashion retailer Bestseller. Povlsen's parents started the company in 1975 and he was only 28 when his father, Troels Holch Povlsen, made him the sole owner of the company in 1990.

Bestseller is the parent company of 11 fashion labels that include Vero Moda, Only, and Jack & Jones.

Povlsen, who is the richest person in Denmark, also has "significant stakes" in online clothing retailer ASOS and payments company Klarna, according to Forbes.

In April 2019, three of Povlsen's four children were killed in the Easter Sunday bombings in Sri Lanka that left at least 290 people dead.



10. Giorgio Armani: $11 billion

The cofounder and sole owner of the Armani empire, Giorgio Armani's luxury fashion house has ventures in haute couture, sportswear, beauty, restaurants, interior design, hotels and resorts, and ready-to-wear fashion, among others.

The Italian-born fashion designer founded his company in 1975 after leaving medical school early. Now, Armani is often dubbed one of the most successful Italian fashion designers in history, with revenue of $2.3 billion in 2018, according to Bloomberg.

Armani owns a 213-foot jet-black superyacht and has homes in Italy and the Caribbean.



9. Heinrich Deichmann: $11.5 billion

Heinrich Deichmann is the CEO of international shoe manufacturer Deichmann, founded by his grandfather as a cobbler's shop in Germany in 1913. 

Deichmann's reputation for creating affordable footwear is ingrained in its history. The family company organized a second-hand shoe exchange scheme in order to help struggling customers after the war, according to the company's website.

Today, Deichmann has grown to become one of Europe's leading shoe retailers, with 3,989 stores in Germany, the US, and throughout Europe. 



8. Alain and Gerard Wertheimer: $16.6 billion

Alain Wertheimer co-owns the French fashion house Chanel with his brother, Gerard. Alain serves as Chanel's chairman while Gerard manages the company's watch department in Switzerland.

The Wertheimer brothers inherited the Chanel empire from their grandfather, Pierre Wertheimer, who founded the brand with Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1913. 

The Wertheimers are known as "fashion's quietest billionaires," according to The New York Times.

''We're a very discreet family, we never talk,'' Gérard Wertheimer told The New York Times Magazine in 2002.''It's about Coco Chanel. It's about Karl [Lagerfeld]. It's about everyone who works and creates at Chanel. It's not about the Wertheimers."

 



7. Stefan Persson: $18.8 billion

Chairman of best-selling fashion retailer H&M, Stefan Persson owns a 32% stake in the company. His son, Karl-Johan Persson, is the company's CEO.

H&M Group, which also owns brands like Weekday, COS, and Monki, brought in more than $22 billion in net sales in 2018, according to the company's annual report.

The Swedish fast-fashion business has about 4,900 stores in 73 markets.



6. Leonardo Del Vecchio: $24.7 billion

Leonardo Del Vecchio is the founder of eyewear giant Luxottica, which went on to acquire Sunglass Hut, Ray-Ban and Oakley and make glasses for brands including Chanel and Bulgari, according to Forbes.

Luxottica merged with French lens maker Essilor in 2018 to become the world's largest producer and retailer of sunglasses and prescription glasses.



5. Tadashi Yanai: $29.8 billion

Tadashi Yanai is the founder and owner of Japanese clothing empire Fast Retailing, the largest clothing retailer in Asia and the parent company of Uniqlo.

Yanai, the richest person in Japan, began his career at his father's roadside tailor shop in suburban Japan, according to Bloomberg. Yanai later changed the name of the company to Fast Retailing in the early 1990s in order to reflect his fast-fashion business strategy.

Yanai opened the first Uniqlo store in 1984 and has expanded the brand to more than 2,000 stores in at least 20 countries.

Fast Retailing has thousands of stores worldwide and reported a yearly revenue of $16.9 billion in August 2017, according to Bloomberg.



4. Francois Pinault: $35.1 billion

François Pinault is the founder and owner of Kering luxury group, which includes iconic fashion houses such as Gucci and Alexander McQueen. He's been married to Mexican-American actress Salma Hayek since 2009.

The French businessman and art collector also owns a plethora of auction houses, wineries, and French publications. He's the second-richest person in France after Bernard Arnault.

Since the beginning of 2019, Pinault's wealth has increased by more than $9 billion, according to Bloomberg's Billionaires Index.



3. Phil Knight: $38.5 billion

Phil Knight is the founder of shoe giant Nike. Knight, a former track runner, started the company that would become Nike with his college track coach, Bill Bowerman, in 1964.

Knight retired as chairman of Nike in 2016 after 52 years, according to Forbes.



2. Amancio Ortega: $70.7 billion

Amancio Ortega is the sixth-richest person in the world, according to both Forbes and Bloomberg's Billionaires Index. Ortega made his $70.7 billion fortune through the Spanish fashion retail group Inditex, which he founded with his ex-wife Rosalia Mera in 1975.

Ortega owns 59% of Inditex, the world's largest clothing retailer that owns Zara, Pull&Bear, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Stradivarius, and other brands.



1. Bernard Arnault: $105.6 billion

Bernard Arnault is the chairman and CEO of LVMH, the world's largest luxury goods company. The French billionaire is the third-richest person in the world, trailing only Bill Gates and Jeff Bezos.

LVMH is the parent company of 75 household names, including Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Sephora, and Bulgari, and, as of November 2019, jewelry giant Tiffany & Co.

Arnault is growing richer at a faster rate than many other billionaires. Since the beginning of 2019, his fortune has risen by $34.3 billion, according to Bloomberg's Billionaires Index. 



Desperate workers have allegedly left notes inside holiday cards, jacket pockets, and purses for years, begging for Western shoppers to send help

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Chinese labor camp

  • A 6-year-old girl from London found a handwritten plea for help inside a Christmas card bought from the UK grocery chain Tesco.
  • The innocuous greeting card contained a disturbing message from someone claiming to be a prisoner at the Shanghai Qingpu prison in China. 
  • The discovery of notes like this have become increasingly common in recent years.
  • Here are seven other examples of cries of help alleging forced labor found inside products from popular retail stores.
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

This week, it was reported that a six-year-old girl from South London found a handwritten plea for help inside a Christmas card bought from Tesco, the massive UK grocery-store chain.

The innocuous greeting card contained a disturbing message from someone claiming to be a prisoner at the Shanghai Qingpu prison in China. 

"We are foreign prisoners in Shanghai Qingpu prison China," the message said, according to The Sunday Times' Peter Humphrey, who broke the story. "Forced to work against our will. Please help us and notify human rights organization."

Florence Widdicombe, 6, at her home in Tooting, south London, writing in a Tesco Christmas card from the same pack as a card she found contained a message from a Chinese prisoner. The family who found a message from a Chinese prisoner in a Christmas card said they thought it was a

The discovery of notes like these have become more common in recent years. 

Major international retailers like Zara, Walmart, and Kmart have dealt with backlash from similar notes discovered in products sold at their stores.

According to the 2019 Global Slavery Index, 40.3 million people are considered to be modern-day slaves, and no country in the world is exempt regardless of its size, population or wealth. Of those 40.3 million people, an estimated 16 million people are forced into labor exploitation in the private economy around the globe. 

Here are seven examples of cries for help and alleging forced labor that have been found inside items from popular retail stores:

SEE ALSO: A 6-year-old girl found a Christmas card with an apparent call for help from a prisoner in China inside. We'll probably never find out if the message was real.

Inside a handbag from Saks Fifth Avenue.

In September 2012, an Australian woman found a note inside a handbag she bought from the upscale department store Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, the New York-based DNAinfo website reported.

The note was from a man identified as Tohnain Emmanuel Njong, who claimed he was forced to work 13-hour days at a Chinese prison factory. A small photo of a man in an orange jacket was also enclosed in the bag.

A human-rights agency named Laogai Research Foundation verified the letter and passed it on to the US Department of Homeland Security, but it's not clear if the agency investigated the complaint, DNAinfo reported in 2014.



Inside pants and socks from Primark.

In 2014, a woman from Northern Ireland said she found a note in a pair of pants from UK fast-fashion retailer Primark alleging slave labor conditions at the Xiang Nan prison in China's central Hubei province, Amnesty International reported at the time.

"Our job inside the prison is to produce fashion clothes for export. We work 15 hours per day and the food we eat wouldn't even be given to dogs or pigs," the note said in Chinese.

Separately, in 2015, a man in Newcastle in northern England found a note stuffed inside his Primark socks.

The note was from a person named Ding Tingkun, who claimed that he was held at a detention center in Lingbi County, eastern China. 

Primark said at the time it believed the note was a hoax"used to gain publicity for the plight of this individual," and that several other messages had appeared around the same time.

"The Primark name is being used to gain publicity for the plight of this individual," a representative said at the time. "We have found no link at all between this individual and any of our suppliers' factories in China."

Source: Business Insider



Inside pockets in Zara clothes.

In 2017, notes started appearing inside the pockets of Zara garments in Istanbul, Turkey, claiming to have been made using unpaid labor.

The messages claimed that employees at the Bravo Tekstil factory in Turkey were not compensated, the BBC reported at the time.

The factory had produced clothes for big brands like Zara and Mango before it went bankrupt overnight in July 2016, the BBC said.

"I made this item you are going to buy, but I didn't get paid for it," one note read, according to The Cut.

A spokesperson for Inditex, the company that owns Zara, said at the time that it was working to find a solution, The Cut reported. The workers' current conditions remain unknown.



Inside a pack of Halloween decorations at Kmart.

In October 2012, a woman in Oregon named Julie Keith found a note inside a pack of Halloween decorations bought at US retailer Kmart, The New York Times reported.

The note said workers in China "toiled seven days a week, their 15-hour days haunted by sadistic guards," and asked the buyer to resend the letter to international human-rights activists, The Times reported.

"Thousands people here who are under the persicution [sic] of the Chinese Communist Party Government will thank and remember you forever," the note also said.

Seven months later, a 47-year-old former inmate at the Masanjia labor camp in Liaoning, northeast China, admitted to writing the letter alongside 20 others, in the hopes they would be discovered by Western shoppers.

The prison is known to house adherents of Falun Gong, a spiritual sect outlawed in China.

 



At the bottom of a purse from Walmart.

In March 2017, an Arizona woman claimed she found a message in the bottom of a purse she'd bought from Walmart, according to Vox. The purse was made in China.

It contained messages written in Chinese, that said it had been made with forced Chinese labor. 

"Inmates in China's Yingshan Prison work 14 hours a day and are not allowed to rest at noon," the note said, according to Vox. "We have to work overtime until midnight. People are beaten for not finishing their work."

Walmart said it had no way to proof if the message was real.



Inside a Christmas card from Tesco.

Six-year-old Florence Widdicombe found a note from someone claiming to have been a foreign Chinese prisoner when she purchased a Christmas card from Tesco. 

The note told the recipient to reach out to Peter Humphrey, a former journalist who was detained for several years in China in the Shanghai Qingpu prison in China. Humphrey then reported the story for The Sunday Times.

The discovery of the striking note prompted Tesco to announce that all the cards had been pulled from its shelves, that it had suspended its use of the Zhejiang Yuanguang Printing factory which produced the cards.



Inside a pack of Christmas cards from Sainsbury's.

Similarly, a woman from Essex, southeastern England, said she found a handwritten note in Chinese inside a box of Christmas cards from UK supermarket chain Sainsbury's.

"Wishing you luck and happiness," the note said in Chinese, as published by The Sun. "Third Product Shop, Guangzhou Prison, No 6 District."

Sainsbury's said at the time it was investigating the matter, The Sun reported.

 



From Sears to TJ Maxx, these were the biggest winners and losers in retail over the past decade

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biggest winner and loser this year 2x1

The 2010s will be remembered as one of the more taxing decades for the retail sector, as malls and stores across the US continued to close at record levels. 

In 2019 alone, over 9,000 stores are expected to close as the retail landscape continues to change. 

With this in mind, we decided to look at some of the biggest winners and losers in retail during the most recent decade. 

The list is by no means exhaustive, but it includes some of the biggest catastrophes and success stories that will be remembered. 

SEE ALSO: Apply here to attend IGNITION: Retail, an event focused on the future of retail, in New York City on January 14.

SEE ALSO: The rise and fall of Sears is the perfect symbol of retail's challenges over the last decade

LOSERS: Sears

The past decade has been full of dramatic twists and turns for Sears.

In the past 10 years, it has closed over 3,000 stores and laid off thousands of workers as sales tumbled from $43 billion at the beginning of the decade to less than $17 billion by 2017. By 2018, the company reached a breaking point and was forced to file for bankruptcy, narrowly avoiding liquidation as it was bailed out by former CEO Edward Lampert.

The company is now bracing itself for another wave of store closings, which will leave it with just 182 stores by February.



Blockbuster

Blockbuster's woes may have predated the 2010s, but it was during this decade that America's favorite video rental chain actually disappeared.

Today, there's just one Blockbuster store left in the world, and it's located in Bend, Oregon. The last remaining stores, which were located in Alaska and Australia, closed their doors earlier this year.

Find out what it's like to visit the store, here

 



Radio Shack

At its peak in 2001, Radio Shack had more than 7,300 locations across the US and boasted of having a store within three miles of 95% of American consumers. 

In 2017, the company filed for bankruptcy for the second time in two years and closed more than a thousand of its stores.

Today, Radio Shack products are sold by authorized dealers and through shop-in-shops at certain Hobby Lobby locations.

 



Victoria's Secret

It's been a tumultuous decade for America's lingerie sweetheart. After strong growth throughout the 1990s and early to mid-2000s, sales slowed in the second half of this decade as the brand was increasingly accused of losing relevance and failing to adapt to the times. 

Intense pressure from analysts and shareholders to update its "tone-deaf" image has started to have an impact on the brand, however. 

This year has seen some major changes. Ed Razek, one of its most prominent executives, who was responsible for organizing its annual fashion show and who came under intense scrutiny after making controversial comments about plus-size and transgender models,  stepped down in the summer after nearly three decades at the company. 

Victoria's Secret has since hired its first transgender model, worked with more body-positive models in its marketing campaigns, and canceled its famous runway show for the first time in years.

Read more:The rise and fall of Victoria's Secret, America's most famous lingerie retailer

 

 

 



Claire's

Claire's is remembered by many as the "it" teen retailer of the '90s. Unfortunately, its success didn't continue throughout the 2000s. 

The company filed for bankruptcy in March 2018 and announced a restructuring plan to handle its $2 billion debt load. At the time, it cited a drop in traffic to malls as one of the main reasons for its demise, given that the majority of its stores are located in malls. 

The company has since emerged from bankruptcy, but it remains to be seen whether it will have a place in the hearts of teen shoppers of the future. 

 



Forever 21

Forever 21 filed for bankruptcy in September and announced it would be closing hundreds of stores globally, ceasing operations entirely in 40 countries.

Analysts cited several reasons for its demise, including overexpansion at a time when sales were shifting online and an inability to keep up with its competitors in the fast-fashion space. 

But the company has stressed that its recent bankruptcy doesn't mean it is going out of business.

"Filing for bankruptcy protection is a deliberate and decisive step to put us on a successful track for the future," it wrote in a letter to customers in September. 

Read more: We shopped at Forever 21 the day after the fast-fashion retailer filed for bankruptcy and saw firsthand why it's in hot water

 



American Apparel

Before the turn of this decade, American Apparel was booming, opening stores, and considered to be the largest clothing manufacturer in the US

By October 2016 it had filed for bankruptcy and was bought by Canadian apparel maker Gildan for $88 million shortly after. 

The brand had been embroiled in controversy for several years. Its founder, Dov Charney, was pushed out of the business by his own board in 2015 after he was accused of misusing company funds and failing to stop an employee from publishing a blog that defamed former employees. Charney had also come under scrutiny in the past after several employees lodged sexual harassment allegations against him. 

Gildan is now working to make over the brand's former reputation. 

Read more: Inside the 'conspiracy' that forced Dov Charney out of American Apparel



Mattress Firm

Mattress Firm became the subject of a 2018 viral thread in which a Redditor suggested that the mattress company was running a money-laundering operation because it had so many stores in the US. According to data startup Thinknum, 42.6% of Mattress Firm stores at that time were located within a one-mile radius of each other.  

Not long after, the company announced it would be filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy and closing hundreds of its stores in the US.

Mattress Firm alleged in a lawsuit against two former in-house real-estate executives, an external broker, and a group of developers that its giant store base was a result of an aggressive expansion plan spurred on by these parties. It accused these individuals of conspiring to make Mattress Firm aggressively expand, open stores in expensive locations, and sign leases above market rates.

Read more: Mattress Firm claims in a lawsuit that its former executives accepted private-jet trips, expensive watches, and luxurious hotel stays from brokers in exchange for opening so many new stores that it spurred conspiracy theories



Gap

Once America's iconic clothing brand, Gap has taken a dramatic fall from grace this decade. Analysts have accused the brand of failing to create a compelling assortment of apparel, thus encouraging customers to shop elsewhere and contributing to an ongoing decline in sales. 

Because of this, discounts have become a mainstay at the store, and it's increasingly becoming unusual to pay full price for anything there. 

 



JCPenney

While JCPenney has suffered from industry-wide issues that have impacted the department store sector — falling traffic to malls and a customer that increasingly prefers to shop online, to name a few — its frequent turnover of CEOs in recent years has also contributed to its demise. 

These CEOs have come in with different ideas and strategies to change the company, which have, in some cases, resulted in alienating its core customer.

Sales have continued to decline over the past decade, and it has a mounting debt load to contend with. Analysts are now hoping that new CEO Jill Soltau will be able to execute a turnaround.

Read more:The 117-year rise and fall of JCPenney, one of America's largest department stores

 



Toys R Us

Toys R Us liquidated its US business in 2018 after an unsuccessful attempt to restructure the company through bankruptcy. It closed all its US locations by the summer of 2018. 

Analysts have blamed its demise on a $6.6 billion leveraged buyout in 2005 by private equity investors, which left the company saddled with debt and meant it was unable to spend the money it needed to improve the store experience and beef up against competitors.

The brand was resurrected by Tru Kids Inc. earlier this year, which said that it plans to open at least 10 stores by the end of 2020.

Read more:See inside the Toys R Us revival's first new store, where sensors track kids as they play with toys before purchase



Malls

Abandoned malls have become a symbol of the past decade as the so-called "retail apocalypse" sweeps across the US. 

These retail complexes have been clobbered by store closures as anchor stores such as Macy's and Sears, which take up large retail spaces and drive foot traffic, have shuttered locations and left malls with enormous gaps to fill.

Credit Suisse analysts are now expecting upwards of 25% of US malls to shutter between 2017 and 2022. 

Read more:35 haunting photos of abandoned shopping malls that highlight the impact of the retail apocalypse over the past decade



Borders

Borders was one of the first retail catastrophes of the past decade. 

The US bookstore chain was founded in 1971 and became one of the biggest players in books by the 1990s. But a series of bad decisions — expanding its store base when sales were shifting online, for example — led to dwindling sales and its eventual bankruptcy and liquidation in 2011. 



Alfred Angelo

Alfred Angelo isn't only the American bridalwear chain to have encountered issues this decade, but its almost instant collapse made headlines after it left hundreds of brides stranded without dresses. 

The company had been in business for over 80 years before it filed for bankruptcy and abruptly closed all of its stores in 2018.

   



Charlotte Russe

While it had a turbulent start to the year — filing for bankruptcy in February, liquidating one month later and closing all of its 500 stores — Charlotte Russe had a mini-comeback several months later. Its new owners announced that it would be relaunching online and reopening 100 stores; these have since opened

Read more:Charlotte Russe is closing all of its stores. We visited the retailer the day it filed it for bankruptcy and saw how it's fallen behind its fast-fashion rivals.



WINNERS: TJ Maxx

TJ Maxx is known to be one of the few retailers to have defied the retail apocalypse. 

The off-price chain has reported several years of consecutive sales growth and continues to woo shoppers with its low-cost deals on designer clothing and homeware. 



Amazon

Amazon is perhaps retail's biggest winner of the decade. The online giant has grown at a breakneck speed in the past 10 years, which analysts say has come at the expense of other traditional brick-and-mortar retailers that have seen sales slow as customers increasingly favor the convenience of shopping online with Amazon. 

It has strengthened its retail offering considerably in these 10 years, adding new services to its Prime membership, acquiring the Whole Foods chain and doubling down on grocery, and launching its cashierless stores, known as Amazon Go. 



Walmart

In the past decade, Walmart has held on to its position as the world's largest retailer and become a more formidable force in the e-commerce world as it ramps up against Amazon. 

It's been on an e-commerce shopping spree since 2010, buying up trendy online brands such as Bonobos, Jet.com, and Modcloth (which it later sold) to grow its online empire. 

It's also made considerable improvements to the consumer shopping experience, rolling out new, speedy delivery services and a click-and-collect option for those who do want to visit the store but want a more convenient way to shop.



Target

Target has flourished in the second half of the decade under the leadership of current CEO Brian Cornell.

Cornell first announced a $7 billion spending plan in 2017 to remodel 600 Target stores and open new small-format stores in urban areas. Analysts say this investment is paying off as the new shopping experience helps to drive more sales. 

Cornell has also doubled down on his mission to expand the company's private-label collections and its collaborations with brands and designers. These collections give customers a reason to visit the store and set it apart from competitors.

It hasn't all been smooth sailing, however. In September, Business Insider's Shoshy Ciment reported on Target's new "modernization" plan that has involved cutting some backroom and overnight shifts, leaving some stock rooms in disarray. 

Read more:Photos show a harrowing situation in Target stores across the country as the retailer cuts shifts and back rooms become overcrowded with merchandise



Dollar General

Dollar General has been on a path to dominate rural America over the past decade, growing at a pace that has been described as largely "unthinkable" in retail as it opens hundreds of stores each year. 

Its strategy was to go where Walmart wasn't, and it seems to be paying off. Customers are flocking to the discount chain to snap up deals, enabling it to hit a 29-year sales streak in 2018.



Costco

Costco is considered to be one of the few retailers to successfully stave off the threat of Amazon, despite lagging behind from an e-commerce perspective, and it has continued to grow over the past decade. 

It keeps members loyal with its consistent deals on everything from groceries to gas and vacations. Its low-cost private-label collection, Kirkland, has become one of its most valuable offerings and a traffic driver in its own right; Kirkland now accounts for roughly 25% of Costco's total sales

Read more: 9 times when Costco is better than Amazon, according to experts



Zara

Zara has continued to reign supreme in the fast-fashion world despite the rise of new online players such as Boohoo and Fashion Nova, which are undercutting Zara's once-speedy turnaround times. 

Thanks to its speedy design process and slick supply chain, Zara is able to stay ahead of trends and continue to appeal to the fashion-conscious shopper. 

Experts say that its strategy of rolling out new items often and in limited batches to give the impression of scarcity encourages the shopper to buy.



Wegmans

Over the past few years, Wegmans has repeatedly been ranked at the top of America's favorite grocery store lists, a mighty achievement for a regional chain that has around 100 stores along the East Coast.

This is thanks to its most loyal fans, the so-called Wegmanites, who will even fly in from different states to attend its new store openings. 

Read more:I just went to Wegmans for the first time, and now I see why the grocery chain has such a massive cult following



Glossier

In six short years, 34-year-old Emily Weiss has built a billion-dollar beauty brand. 

Weiss was a former Vogue "super-intern," who appeared on TV series "The Hills" before becoming a full-time fashion assistant at Vogue and setting up her own beauty blog on the side, where she interviewed celebrities about their own beauty routines. 

Called "Into The Gloss," the blog laid the foundation for her brand, which created products based on reader feedback. 

While Glossier doesn't publicly release sales numbers, a spokesperson recently told Business Insider that it surpassed $100 million in annual revenue in 2018, doubling its 2017 numbers, and acquired a million new customers that year.

It was valued at $1.2 billion in March after raising $100 million in funding. 

Read more:How the Teen Vogue 'super intern' on The Hills became the CEO of a billion-dollar beauty company

 

 



Ross Stores

The 2010s have been a strong decade for Ross Stores, which has opened more than 500 stores and reported strong sales growth.

The off-price model generally benefits in harder economic times, when customers are more price-conscious. But even as the economy has improved, its growth has shown no sign of slowing down, indicating that shoppers are still hooked on deals and discounts. 

 



Lululemon

From a sales perspective, it's been a strong decade for Lululemon. The brand that arguably started the athleisure craze has continued to flourish and gain new customers even as the market becomes increasingly saturated with options. 

But the past 10 years haven't been without their challenges, and the company has battled through a string of controversies caused by its former leaders. 

Most recently, former CEO Laurent Potlevin abruptly stepped down from the company over alleged poor conduct. A Racked investigation shortly after that, based on interviews with former and current employees, shed light on what employees described as a "toxic" work environment created by Potdevin. 

 



Casper

Casper is part of a new generation of direct-to-consumer, "digitally native" brands that have emerged during the past decade and are attempting to turn traditional retail on its head by offering more convenient ways to shop. 

Casper has done for mattresses what Warby Parker did for glasses — it has attempted to take away the stress of shopping for mattresses by enabling customers to have a premium mattress delivered directly to their door.  

The company is now valued at $1.1 billion after raising $100 million in a recent round of funding and added stores to its offering. 



Warby Parker

Warby Parker has been credited with turning the eyewear industry on its head by dramatically lowering the cost of stylish frames. 

What started as an online-only business, where shoppers would find the frames best suited to them by completing a quiz, has now transitioned into a 100-plus store enterprise




Kate Middleton paired a Zara dress with an Alexander McQueen coat and a $775 handbag

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kate middleton aspinal 2020

Kate Middleton continues to prove how much she loves mixing luxury and affordable fashion designers. 

For a visit to Bradford in the UK on Wednesday, the Duchess of Cambridge wore a bespoke military-style green coat by Alexander McQueen and $695 block Gianvito Rossi suede pumps.

Middleton also carried a small crocodile handbag from Aspinal of London. The shiny black purse retails for $775 and is still available for purchase at the time of writing.

kate middleton aspinal 2020

Underneath her coat, Middleton wore a printed black-and-white houndstooth dress from Zara that originally cost $129 but was reduced to $35.99 before it sold out. The dress featured a flowy high collar with a bow, long sleeves, and a removable belt with a fabric-covered buckle.

The duchess finished off her look with a pair of $8 Zeen earrings, which she previously wore during her and Prince William's royal tour of Pakistan.

kate middleton zara dress

The royal, who turned 39 years old on January 9, is no stranger to wearing affordable clothing.

Middleton has proved time and time again that she's a fan of brands like Zara, Topshop, Gap, and Seraphine. One of her most popular Zara looks was a blue pleated dress she wore the day after her wedding in 2011, as she and Prince William left Buckingham Palace for a weekend getaway. 

Join the conversation about this story »

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Zara's owner will donate face masks and hospital gowns for coronavirus patients and healthcare workers amid the shortage caused by the pandemic

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Zara

  • Inditex, owner of the retail store Zara, announced on Wednesday that it will donate masks to coronavirus patients and health officials in Spain. The company says it's also looking into converting factories to manufacture hospital gowns.
  • Zara's parent company wrote a near-$335 million impairment for its spring/summer inventory and said sales have fallen 24%.
  • As of Wednesday, 3,785 of Inditex Fashion Group stores have closed across 39 markets. 
  • Luxury conglomerate LVMH similarly turned its luxury perfume factories into hand sanitizer manufacturers to help combat the shortage of sanitizer in France. 
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

Inditex, owner of the retail chain Zara, announced on Wednesday that it will donate face masks and look into converting factories to make hospital gowns for coronavirus patients and healthcare officials in Spain. Inditex, which is based in Galicia, Spain, joins other fashion brands and retailers that are stepping up to help fight the global coronavirus pandemic

As reported by Vogue's Brooke Bobb, Inditex plans on letting the Spanish government use its factories and logistics teams to help produce medical supplies amid the national shortage.

In a statement given to Vogue, Inditex said that though it has already donated 10,000 face masks, it "expects to be in a position to ship another 300,000 surgical masks" by the end of the week. The news comes amid a global shortage of not just face masks but also other medical supplies, including hand sanitizer and hospital beds. Demand for gloves and protective glasses has also risen substantially. 

Inditex's goal to transform its textile factories into medical supply manufacturers follows in the footsteps of LVMH, which just last week turned its perfume factories into hand sanitizer manufacturers, in an effort to help combat the sanitizer shortage in France. According to the latest available estimates, France has had 9,134 reported cases of the virus and 264 deaths, while Spain has had 17,395 reported cases and 803 deaths

Inditex wrote an over $300 million impairment amid the coronavirus pandemic

Business of Fashion's Sarah Kent reported on Wednesday that Inditex wrote down the value of its spring/summer inventory by almost €300 million ($335 million), as sales this month tumbled 24%. Kent also reported that, as of Wednesday, 3,785 of Inditex Fashion Group stores had closed across 39 different markets. Most of the company's stores in China have reopened, however, as the virus' spread in that region has since slowed significantly.

The fashion group said it's too early to see what impact the coronavirus will have on its overall yearly performance, which is similar to what the leaders of Kering and Salvatore Ferragamo said when asked how the virus would impact their own companies' bottom lines. 

"The start of 2020 is driven by severe but temporary external factors," Inditex Executive Chairman Pablo Isla reportedly said on an analyst call on Wednesday. "We have total confidence in our business model and the long-term potential of the group."

SEE ALSO: Moncler is donating nearly $11 million to help build a new hospital for coronavirus patients in Milan — here's how some of the biggest names in luxury fashion are funding the fight against the pandemic

DON'T MISS: The life and rise of legendary designer Alexander McQueen, who would have been 51 today

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The world's biggest retailers are using their factories to create hand sanitizer and hospital gowns and donating millions to help fight the coronavirus pandemic

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Jeff Bezos Amazon

  • Despite being severely impacted by the coronavirus outbreak, many of the world's biggest retailers are stepping up to help those most in need.
  • LVMH, Amazon, Walmart, and Inditex are among the industry leaders that are making donations or creating products to help fight the pandemic. 
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

Parts of the retail sector globally are being battered by the coronavirus pandemic as many companies are forced to shutter stores and take a hit on sales, but despite this, some are still doing their bit to support those most in need. 

LVMH, Amazon, Walmart, Inditex, and H&M are among the world's biggest retail companies to be making donations, supporting local communities, or creating products for healthcare and hospital workers to support the fight against coronavirus. 

The list below is by no means exhaustive but looks at what some of the biggest retailers are doing to help right now:

SEE ALSO: CVS, Walmart, and 14 other 'essential' businesses that are desperate for workers right now

LVMH is ordering face masks in from China and using its perfume factories to make hand sanitizer

The world's largest luxury conglomerate has been doing its part to support the world during the coronavirus pandemic. 

In January, the company donated 16 million renminbi ($2.2 million) to The Red Cross Society of China. Two months later, in March, as the virus had spread through Europe and supplies came under pressure, LVMH announced that it would start making alcohol-free hand sanitizer in its factories, which were normally used to manufacture its perfumes. The hand sanitizer would then be sent to French health authorities free of charge, it said. 

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Over the weekend, the company pledged to address the shortage of surgical masks in France by ordering millions of masks from China to give to the French health service.

The company said it would handle the logistics and distribution of bringing some 40 million masks into France over the next four weeks, and cover the costs of the first 10 million masks. 

 



Zara's parent company is investigating using its factories to create gowns for Spanish hospitals

Inditex, the world's largest fashion retailer that is best known for its Zara brand, recently said it was looking at how it could switch manufacturing at its textile factories to create hospital gowns. 

The company has also offered up its logistics and supplier network to the Spanish government to enable the delivery of key items such as masks, gloves, goggles, and caps to hospitals around the country.  



L'Oréal is producing hand sanitizer for hospitals, care homes, and pharmacies

L'Oréal announced a major initiative to support the French and European health authorities, as well as those most in need, during the coronavirus pandemic in a press release on Wednesday.

This included producing hand sanitizer in its factories and distributing these products free of charge to hospitals, care homes, and pharmacies; donating money to non-profit organizations that help the most vulnerable; and freezing payments from its partners – hair salons or small perfume shops, for example – in a bid to protect small and medium-sized businesses.

Other leading beauty companies have stepped up and made similar pledges by creating hand sanitizer or donating hygiene products to those in need. 

Read more: These beauty brands are making major donations to support communities in need during the coronavirus pandemic

 



Luxury brands such as Moncler, Richemont, Kering, Hermès, Prada and Versace are donating millions of dollars to fight the pandemic

Some of the biggest names in luxury have pledged millions of dollars to fund research of Covid-19 and donated money to non-profit organizations that honor frontline medical workers.

One of the biggest donors, Moncler, gave €10 million ($10.9 million) towards the construction of a new hospital in Milan, according to Business Insider's Dominic-Madori Davis

Prada donated two intensive care and resuscitation units to three of Milan's main hospitals and is among the Italian luxury brands including Gucci's parent company Kering, to be creating and distributing masks and hospital gowns around Italy. 



H&M is creating protective equipment for hospital workers

H&M, one of the world's largest fashion retailers, is using its global supply chain to produce and distribute protective clothing for hospital and health care workers. 

It has also donated $500,000 to a COVID-19 Solidarity Response Fund, which was created by the World Health Organization to raise money towards the work that is being doen to prevent, detect, and respond to the coronavirus pandemic. 

 



Alibaba's billionaire founder shipped masks and testing kits to the US

Jack Ma, the richest man in China and the founder of ecommerce giant Alibaba, pledged to donate 500,000 masks and 1 million testing kits to the US. He recently shared photos on Twitter of these shipments making their way over to America. 

Ma has also pledged around $16.5 million towards the development of a vaccine to cure coronavirus through different organizations. 



Walmart is opening drive-thru coronavirus testing sites

Walmart has partnered with the federal government to offer drive-thru coronavirus testing sites in the parking lots at some of its stores.

So far, two testing sites have opened up at two Chicago locations and are testing first responders and health workers. In the future, the plan is to scale this out to other stores and offer the testing to the general public too. 

The US retail giant has also pledged $25 million to support organizations that are working on finding ways to detect, manage, and prevent the virus, as well as non-profits that are supporting the most vulnerable. 

Read more:Walmart just opened its first drive-thru coronavirus testing sites. Here's what they look like.

 

 



Amazon is helping to distribute at-home coronavirus testing kits in Seattle and has pledged $7 million to support local communities in the US

Amazon has pledged $7 million to support the most vulnerable communities in the Washington DC and Seattle area via non-profit organizations. 

It is also working with a group of public health researchers, which are backed by the Gates Foundation, to deliver and collect coronavirus at-home testing kits to residents of Seattle's Kings County.

Moreover, it's offering $20 million worth of credits and technical support to its Amazon Web Services customers, such as small companies or research institutions, that are using its cloud services to tackle the crisis.



Kroger is donating $3 million to non-profits that help the most vulnerable get access to food

Kroger is donating $3 million to two non-profit organizations that help provide America's most vulnerable populations with food via its Zero Hunger/Zero Waste Foundation.

"The coronavirus pandemic may result in more of our neighbors struggling with food insecurity during this challenging time – and we want to help. That is why The Kroger Co. Zero Hunger | Zero Waste Foundation is directing $3 million, its largest commitment to date, to rapidly deploy hunger-relief resources to food-insecure communities across the country," Keith Dailey, Kroger's group vice president of corporate affairs, said in a statement to the press earlier this month. 



Target is donating $10 million to various relief funds

Target has pledged $10 million to help various local, national, and global organizations during the coronavirus crisis.

It has promised to give $1 million to its most impacted employees, $5 million to state and community nonprofits supporting local populations, $3 million to national nonprofits such as Feeding America, and $1 million to global organizations such as UNICEF.

 



How to look rich when you aren't, according to 'Queer Eye' star Tan France

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Queer Eye

  • Tan France, a fashion entrepreneur and part of the "Queer Eye" Fab Five, says that choosing classic pieces and getting your clothing tailored is the secret to making affordable pieces look expensive. 
  • He says these tricks fooled his future husband into thinking he was wealthy when they first met. 
  • His four favorite stores for budget shopping are COS, The Kooples, Sandro, and Zara.  
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

Before "Queer Eye" star Tan France had success with a Netflix show and a clothing company, Kingdom & State, the future entrepreneur dressed himself on a budget. But, he says, he dressed so well he managed to trick his now-husband into thinking he was wealthy when he wasn't.

"I started dating my husband 11 years ago," France tells Business Insider. "And he always assumed I was rich — like really quite wealthy. And it was because of the way I dressed." 

France says it's all about choosing the right clothes and making sure they fit right to stand out from the crowd. "I chose classic pieces and got my things tailored."

He says that tailoring is a simple upgrade that "is a lot less expensive than one might think." By getting things tailored, France says he's managed to make cheaper pieces look much more expensive than they actually are. And when he first met his husband, that was the trick. "I think it's because my clothes always looked like they were custom made to fit my body," he says. "I always looked chic."

For those wanting to look like they're worth far more than they are, the Fab Five's fashion guru has four shopping suggestions.  

British fashion brand COS is his first suggestion. "You would think that it's a higher-end brand than it is," says France. "They have styles that are similar to the likes of a Celine or a Chloe, especially their color stories. But they're relatively inexpensive compared to those designer brands."

His next suggestions are French fashion brands The Kooples and Sandro. "They do a good job of making it seem like their products are worth hundreds upon hundreds when it's really not at all," he says. 

And lastly, he suggests Zara for quick pieces that look like they're worth double than they really are. "I've worn a Zara suit or a Zara outfit many times on a red carpet or on the show and people assumed that it's something ridiculously expensive," say France.  "And it's not, it's Zara."

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Zara's owner is investing $1 billion to grow its online shopping business as the pandemic pushes more consumers online longterm

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Zara

  • Zara's parent company, which owns several other brands, is investing $1 billion to boost its online shopping platform over the next three years.
  • The company said it expects online sales across the group to account for 25% of its overall sales by 2022. 
  • Analysts say even as stores begin to reopen, e-commerce is going to become a more important part of retail in the wake of the pandemic and that retailers should be preparing for that.
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

Inditex, the parent company of Zara and Massimo Dutti among other brands, is investing $1 billion over the next three years to expand its online shopping platform.

The Spanish fast-fashion giant announced the news Wednesday as it reported its first-quarter earnings. In a statement, it said that it expects online sales to account for a quarter of its business by 2022.

It is also spending $1.7 billion on upgrading its stores to become more integrated with its online platform by "deploying advanced technology solutions," it said.

"The overriding goal between now and 2022 is to speed up full implementation of our integrated store concept, driven by the notion of being able to offer our customers uninterrupted service no matter where they find themselves, on any device and at any time of the day," CEO Pablo Isla said in a statement.

Inditex, which has nearly 7,500 stores across the world, has expanded at a rapid rate over the past decade and a half opening stores in 96 different countries. 

By the end of the first quarter, only 965 of its stores were open during the lockdown and during that time, online sales increased by 95%; online sales were up 50% overall during the first quarter. 

Before the pandemic hit, Inditex was already focused on expanding its online business. However, its decision to double down on this suggests that it is expecting e-commerce to play an even bigger role longterm. 

Analysts say even as stores begin to reopen, this period is likely to have a long-term impact on how consumers shop and that retailers should be prepping for that.

Not only could some shoppers be scared to go back to stores but the lack of any vaccine for COVID-19 means that there is a chance of a second wave of infection. Moreover, other consumers may simply have become more accustomed to shopping online during this period and choose to stick with it.

"Never since the dot-com boom has digital commerce been so front and center," a report conducted by Forrester and BloomReach about the realities of e-commerce in 2020, which was published on Tuesday, wrote. 

It continued: "Digital channels for consumers and businesses have been maturing for more than two decades, but the coronavirus has pushed digital from a supporting function to a primary touchpoint for many. These touchpoints are a lifeline for consumers, businesspeople, and even students as social distancing has forced a dramatic change in behaviors."

Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData Retail, echoed these thoughts in an email to Business Insider.

"Online sales are likely to remain more highly penetrated than they were before and this is something brands will need to assess," he said.

Saunders stressed that retailers that offer a strong omnichannel experience are best positioned now. "The losers will be those retailers that are less adept in multichannel and which have large store estates which are increasingly irrelevant," he said.

SEE ALSO: Retailers with limited or no online offering such as TJ Maxx, Ross, and Dollar General are at risk of becoming 'irrelevant' in a post-pandemic world, analysts say

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'No online, no problem': Fast-fashion giant Primark will survive in a post-COVID world without an online platform, UBS analysts say

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Primark

  • In light of the coronavirus pandemic, experts have questioned the long-term viability of any retailer without an e-commerce platform.
  • Fast-fashion giant Primark, known for its rock-bottom prices, is one such retailer.
  • In a note to clients yesterday, a group of UBS analysts said it makes no sense for Primark to move online, and that the retailer is uniquely positioned to thrive without an online platform. 
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

Brick-and-mortar retail is perhaps facing bigger challenges than ever before. During the coronavirus pandemic, consumers have shifted to shopping online, and have learned to live without stores. Major retailers such as Zara and H&M are closing branches to focus more on e-commerce, and experts have questioned whether any retailer can survive without an e-commerce platform.

UK fast-fashion giant Primark, known for selling clothing and homeware at low prices, has no online store, and its sales have dried up during the pandemic. But the chain need not worry about its future, a group of UBS analysts has said.

In a note to clients on Wednesday, titled "no online, no problem," they said the retailer can thrive without going online because of its unique business model — it makes meager margins and relies on customers buying in bulk, which doesn't lend itself to online shopping.

Read more: Retailers with limited or no online offering such as TJ Maxx, Ross, and Dollar General are at risk of becoming 'irrelevant' in a post-pandemic world, analysts say

To prove their point, they compared Primark's margins and its average basket value to its main competitors, including Zara, H&M, Boohoo, and Asos. 

"Assuming each retailer sells a Primark basket at a Primark gross margin, no retailer makes positive EBITA [Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization].

"What Primark offers consumers does not seem to be something that can be easily replicated online. As long as there is demand for £2 ($2.50) T-shirts, people will have to go to stores," the UBS analysts wrote.

Primark could raise prices to make money online, but this "would remove Primark's major competitive advantage and USP [unique selling point] and bring it into the danger zone of middle-market fashion where there is little to differentiate the offer from peers," the analysts wrote.

Primark company executives have made the same point in the past. "The cost to support home delivery can't be supported with our price points," John Bason, finance director of Primark parent company Associated British Foods, told The Wall Street Journal in 2017. Low prices are well worth it, he added. "Volumes don't go up by a bit, they go up by a lot."

The collapse of other brick-and-mortar rivals gives Primark a chance to gain more market share, the analysts said. They estimate the retailer could capture around £6 billion, or $7.5 billion, in extra sales. 

SEE ALSO: Fast-fashion giant Boohoo reports blockbuster sales growth during the lockdown and acquires Oasis and Warehouse

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A social campaign that pressured $15 billion out of 18 brands like H&M, Lululemon, and Walmart is a case study in how people are becoming ruthless about holding companies to ethical standards

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  • Major fast-fashion companies such as H&M, Walmart, and Fashion Nova cancelled in-progress or completed orders with their suppliers during the pandemic, which led to many factories not paying their garment workers.
  • Brands, activists, and consumers are campaigning for billion-dollar companies through the Pay Up petition, which has more than 200,000 signatures.
  • So far, 18 brands committed to pay for back orders, including H&M, Adidas, Zara, Target, and Lululemon. The campaign estimates it's unlocked a total of $15 billion for suppliers globally. 
  • Ayesha Barenblat is the CEO and founder of Remake, the ethical fashion and activism community behind the viral movement. In an Instagram Live video, she explained how the fast fashion industry is failing to meet ethical standards during the pandemic.
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

A recent investigation by The Times reported that major fast fashion company Boohoo is exploiting workers to produce its often astonishingly inexpensive clothing. Shoppers may not immediately see it when they snag a blouse on sale for $8, but the report shows that there can be a grave human cost to fast fashion.

During the coronavirus pandemic, several major clothing brands cancelled in-progress or completed orders with their manufacturers. Bangladesh, which is the world's second largest garment supplier, expects to lose $6 billion in annual revenue from canceled or delayed orders, Business of Fashion reported. In many cases, those debts trickled down to garment workers, like those in Myanmar who did not receive wages for the hours they worked before factories shut down, Myanmar Times reported

This sparked an outcry on social media from activists, brands, and consumers to petition billion-dollar companies to pay factories and workers. The movement has become a viral grassroots labor rights campaign using the Instagram tag #PAYUP

 

The company behind the movement, Remake, is a community of women who pledge to put an end to fast fashion through their personal buying power. The Pay Up petition has more than 200,000 signatures and has so far committed 18 brands to pay for back orders, including H&M, Adidas, Zara, Target, and Lululemon. The campaign estimates it's unlocked a total of $15 billion for suppliers globally. 

The list of companies that have not yet paid include Sears, Walmart, Forever 21, Fashion Nova, and Gap. 

 

Remake's founder and CEO Ayesha Barenblat talked about the petition in an Instagram Live video hosted by slow fashion influencer and Talking Tastebuds podcast host Ventia La Manna

In the video, the women explained how the fast fashion industry is failing to meet ethical standards during the pandemic and why it's important for consumers to hold major companies accountable. 

Stores are sitting on surplus spring inventory as the retail industry is reeling from layoffs and furloughs

As with many other industries, the pandemic has accelerated retail's ongoing decline and shift to ecommerce, as several companies such as Macy's, Under Armour, and Levi's have laid off or furloughed employees during mandatory temporary closures and decreased sales. 

"A lot of brands are sitting on surplus inventory from the spring," Barenblat said. 

Some companies like J.Crew and Brooks Brothers have struggled to keep up with impending debts and filed for bankruptcy. 

The fast fashion industry profits from low wages and exploits workers 

The fashion industry continues to profit from low wages and poor worker conditions.

Traditionally, garment making is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. When fast fashion brands discovered they could speed up production and increase volume by outsourcing, it changed the value of labor. Suddenly, there were thousands of workers in countries such as China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam willing to work for much less than American workers. The minimum wage in Myanmar, for example, is roughly $3.50 per day, according to the New York Times

"Whether it's a luxury label or something for high street brands, it takes the same amount of work," Barenblat said. "We have artificially kept [worker] wages so low when everything around her is becoming more expensive. The ability for people to become billionaires on fashion is built on that exploitation."

Fast fashion boycotts are leading consumers to shop at thrift stores and online resellers like Poshmark and ThredUp

Consumers who don't want to support the practices of fast fashion are increasingly looking to other ways to build their wardrobes. And that doesn't always mean having to spend more money on sustainable and ethical brands. 

"People think that they need to buy their way into a sustainable wardrobe, they need to invest in all these expensive brands, but really that's not necessarily the case," La Manna said. 

A ThredUp report projects that the secondhand market will hit $64 billion by 2024. More shoppers are turning to shopping apps like Poshmark, ThredUp, and Depop to buy preowned clothing and save on waste. Young shoppers often go to thrift stores and sell their vintage finds on Instagram as a side-hustle. 

"We all, as a part of fashion whether you're an activist, a model, an influencer, just to shop for clothes, can be a part of the solution," Barenblat said.

MUST READ: A vicious cycle fuels systemic racism in the fashion industry, where rich white people determine beauty standards and who gets access in the first place

SEE ALSO: Your 'Black Lives Matter' Instagram post was a good start — now here's everything else entrepreneurs must do to support black communities year round

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Zara founder Amancio Ortega's investment company accused of 'bullying tactics' to deny retailers rent cuts

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  • Zara's real estate arm, Pontegadea, has been accused of using "bullying tactics" to deny rent reduction requests from UK high-street stores, according to The Times.
  • An anonymous retail chain told the newspaper that Pontegadea, the investment company of Zara cofounder Amancio Ortega, wanted to add an extra year to its lease for every month of unpaid rent.
  • Caffe Nero also asked Pontegadea for a rent reduction for one of its stores in central London. Instead, Pontegadea demanded the rent be nearly doubled.
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

Pontegadea, the real estate arm of retailer Zara's parent Inditex, has been accused of bullying retailers that request rent reductions during the pandemic.

The firm is the personal investment company of Amancio Ortega, the Spanish billionaire that founded Inditex. According to a report in The Times, it has denied rent cuts to high-street stores and been stubborn in the face of their demands during the COVID-19 outbreak. 

The UK government has told landlords to "be flexible" about rent during the pandemic, and to "have a frank and open conversation with their tenants at the earliest opportunity, to allow both parties to agree a sensible way forward."

But an anonymous retailer told the Times that Pontegadea, which owns 59.3% of Inditex, was using "bully boy" tactics in dealing with the terms and conditions of a lease agreement. 

The unnamed retail chain, reportedly a well-known one, said the real estate firm originally said that an extra year should be added to its lease for every month of unpaid rent. Pontegadea then agreed to a three-month rent holiday for the retailer — but only if it extended its lease for two years, the report said.

When the retailer rejected this condition, Pontegadea reportedly threatened legal action and bailiffs — UK legal officers — turned up at a store.

A senior spokesperson for the anonymous chain told the Times: "The majority of our landlords are working with tenants with most offering a minimum of half rent for the shutdown period with nothing in return and many are offering much more reciprocal agreements on smaller lease extensions. The threat of immediate legal action goes against the code of conduct."

In another incident, UK-based Caffe Nero requested a rent cut from Pontegadea for one of its central London outlets because of reduced footfall. The lease is due to expire this summer. But Pontegadea declined and insisted on almost doubling the rent, the coffee chain said.

"We gave up trying to deal with them because they would not see sense," a Caffe Nero spokesperson told the newspaper.

Pontegadea, which has a €15.2 billion ($17 billion) property portfolio, has made use of dividends from Inditex to purchase prime commercial real estate.

A spokesperson for the real-estate firm told the Times: "We are individually analysing the situation with each tenant, but we do not publicly refer to the terms and conditions of private lease contracts."

SEE ALSO: McDonald's files lawsuit against former CEO alleging he had multiple sexual relationships with employees and lied to investigators

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Zara owner Intidex says it has bounced back from its pandemic woes, reporting a $254 million second-quarter profit

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Zara owner Inditex said it had reached a "turning point" after its quarterly net profit bounced back to 214 million euros ($254 million), from a loss of 409 million euros ($486 million) the previous quarter.

The Spanish fashion retailer, which also owns Pull&Bear and Bershka, reported net sales of 4.7 billion euros ($5.6 billion) in the May-to-July quarter, up from 3.3 billion euros ($3.9 billion) the previous quarter.

But its net sales for the first half of 2020 dived by a third compared to the same period last year, even though online sales grew by 74%. 

Inditex made a loss of 198 million euros ($235 million) in the first half of the year, it said, compared to a 1.55 billion euros ($1.8 billion) profit in the first half of 2019. A 308 million euros ($366 million) store renovation program accounts for some of those losses, it said.

On Tuesday, Intidex rival H&M Group reported $229 million in quarterly profits— 10 times higher than analysts had forecast. Its sales were 19% down on the same period in 2019, compared to a 32% drop for Inditex, though H&M's quarter started a month later, when more customers were visiting stores after lockdown.

Despite falling sales, Inditex has continued expanding into new markets. So far in 2020, Zara has launched online sales in 12 countries across South America, Europe, and North Africa including Argentina, Tunisia, and Chile. Zara will also launch online sales in four Central American countries later this month.

By mid-September, 98% of Inditex's stores had reopened after lockdown, it said.

SEE ALSO: These are the tricks that Zara uses to figure out the styles you want before you even do

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Sneaky ways stores like H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo get you to spend more money on clothes

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Following is a transcript of the video.

Daniel: So like Cardi B says, 'I like those Balenciagas, the ones that look like socks,' right?

Narrator: Wish you could have the shoes that look like socks? Well, if you don't wanna spend $770 you can head over to Zara and get something pretty similar for about 60 bucks. Chances are, your closet probably has some H&M logos in it.

H&M isn't alone: retailers like Zara, Forever 21, Fashion Nova, Uniqlo, and so many more all fit the definition of fast fashion. The fashion industry is one of the largest industries in the world, and it's growing. Why is it so easy to buy cheap clothes at stores like H&M? Well it turns out, part of that irresistibly is in our brain chemistry.

Traditionally, the fashion industry has been organized into two clearly defined seasons: autumn winter, and spring summer. Fast fashion emerged in the late '70s and early '80s, at a time when trends became much more sought-after. Technology started advancing, manufacturing was outsourced overseas, and synthetic fabrics started to be incorporated a lot more into clothing. The original idea was simple: make runway fashion cheap, and available as soon as possible.

Researchers define fast fashion as a marketing tool to drive retail footfall. It allows retailers to make up-to-date product offers to their customer base frequently. Retailers create demand with a constant flood of new items. Fast fashion functions  like this: designers travel to fashion shows and closely monitor platforms like Instagram, then immediately send off photos to get modeled. Materials get sourced and made overseas, stores get stocked, and H&M can do this process all internally, and all under a week.

The only way fast fashion can turn a profit is if they sell a ton of clothes, which they do. H&M's yearly sales in 2017 were $25 billion, and their CEO's net worth is $1.9 billion. In order for consumers to return and keep purchasing, the clothes need to be cycled through quickly, rather than invested in for long-term wear. It is for immediate consumption. It is to capture the look of the moment. It is not to linger in the wardrobe. So, back to Cardi B and the shoes that look like socks.

Daniel: So you go and you get the Balenciagas that look like socks.

Narrator: That's Daniel. Daniel went from the world of high fashion to combating the effects the industry is having on the planet.

Daniel: Everything is made from textile waste, and all of the other products in the store are made from recycled materials. So you go and you get the Balenciagas that look like socks, and it's only making money for the brand and the endorser. It's not functioning the way it used to, which was to buy into a brand because of the value, or the quality. It's buying into a trend to make money.

Narrator: Following trends is a uniquely human trait, and fast fashion retailers know that. That's why when you go into an H&M, all the designs seem new, and freshly updated. Unfortunately, it's impossible to ignore what's going on behind the scenes. Over the past few decades, fast fashion retailers have been accused of exploiting developing countries for cheap labor, cheap materials, and poor regulation of working conditions. In 2018, the rights group Global Labor Justice released a report detailing allegations of threats and abuse at Asian factories that supply clothes for Gap and H&M.

In a statement, H&M said:

This report clearly shows the need of continuously addressing these issues. The empowerment of women, economically and socially, is a way to prevent gender-based violence. Our position is very clear, and we actively support such development within the global textile industry. We do this by working to enable freedom of association, strengthening workers' voices, and the right to join or form a trade union, as well as bargain collectively.

So, why does this keep happening almost every year? 

Anita: The bigger issue for fast fashion is that you have factories, suppliers, sub-contractors, sub-sub-contractors. And so the question is When you look at a global supply chain, how can a major brand know that the laws in a local jurisdiction are being respected? That's the bigger problem.

Narrator: Combine a poor ability to  regulate working conditions and synthetic materials, and you can start to understand how a T-shirt can cost so little. The problem is, our brains have a really difficult time looking past a slashed price tag. A study done by researchers at Carnegie Mellon revealed that subjects who were presented items at discounted prices revealed reactions in three parts of the brain. When you consider buying something, the brain gets pleasure from anticipating a new item, but also experiences pain when considering the loss of money. However, when the price is low, there is almost no pain. So while it may feel good to get deals at H&M, the low prices help us forget the frequent news headlines, and in the end, we're already thinking about what we need next. Naturally, this yearlong shopping season is creating a lot of waste. The culture of trendy fashion leaves 14 million tons of textile waste in landfills each year.

Daniel: It's impossible for an entire item of clothing to be completely made from start to finish for the prices that things are sold for. It changes the consumer's perspective on the value of things, so it makes things that have a healthy value and a healthy appreciation for themselves, exclusionary. Fast fashion isn't sustainable, because sustainability inherently means something you're able to maintain doing at a certain rate or level. If we continue to demand new materials, and produce waste materials and byproducts at the rate that we're doing it, it will have catastrophic effects on the environment, worse than it already has.

Narrator: When things are cheap, we tend not to really care about them as much, or how they got here, or where they eventually end up.

Anita: Consumers need to educate themselves and when the price tag is really low they should be asking the question: Why is it so low? Again, people live on budgets, we understand that. But the question is: Is there a strong human rights policy behind that? And I think the larger issue for fast fashion is rather than saying I need 10 T-shirts at H&M and I'm gonna buy one and throw it out And not be sustainable as a consumer That I'm maybe gonna invest a little bit more, and buy less So there's really just an issue of responsible consumption And responsible buying.

Narrator: However, H&M says that it's moving toward a more sustainable future. According to its 2017
Sustainability Report, the company's goal is to be climate positive by 2040. So what does this mean? Well, for starters, it hopes to use 100% recycled or other sustainably-sourced materials by 2030, and move to a toxic-free fashion future. When asked for a statement, H&M directed me to its sustainability blog, which provides frequent updates on its efforts. So, what next? Well, at the risk of sounding cliche, real change comes first from the individual, but if you're like me, it's pretty hard to justify spending 100 dollars on a white t-shirt. With all things considered, it's up to consumers to choose what businesses they want to support. The money we spend determines where the industry goes, and right now, the fashion industry isn't going anywhere but up. 

EDITOR'S NOTE: This video was originally published in December 2018.

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Zara shoppers complain of hour-long lines, messy stores, and poor customer service, as the retail industry struggles with a labor shortage

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A line outside a Zara store in Los Angeles

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Zara shoppers in the US are complaining of hour-long lines, chaotic stores, and poor customer service at the apparel giant, as shopping picks up again. 

"Why is your Yonkers store such a pain? Lines are ridiculous, customer service is terrible," one customer wrote on Twitter this month. 

"Myself and other customers are having the worst customer service experience in the downtown DC @ZARA. The levels of rudeness is uncalled for and the lines extremely long. Not a single staff member or manager has bothered to open additional registers," another wrote.

"Messy stores, more product in bins than hangers, few employees working in the store and one person at the register. Invest in some customer service please," another shopper said

There are dozens of complaints on Twitter, and they are not limited to the US — shoppers in other parts of the world also say they face similar problems. 

A spokesperson for Zara did not immediately respond to Insider's request for comment.

While Zara is known for notoriously long lines, reports on social media suggest they're worse than ever, as shoppers return to stores to restock their wardrobes.

According to research from Bank of America, cited by Insider's Avery Hartmans, US clothes spending is up 35% from two years ago.

"I think the resurgence in apparel buying has led to a sharp uptick in demand for popular brands," GlobalData Retail Managing Director Neil Saunders told Insider. "This is much more visible in terms of lines to get into the store because of continued social distancing and capacity limitations," he said.

Some shoppers are begging Zara to reopen its fitting rooms in the US, which closed during the pandemic — they say this is making the lines worse because customers who can't try clothes in-store end up returning them.

Zara's customer service team has responded to multiple customer complaints about this on Twitter, saying that its fitting rooms will remain closed "for the safety of our employees and customers." A spokesperson did not respond to Insider's request for comment for more details. 

On top of soaring demand coming out of lockdown, retailers across the US are also grappling with an ongoing labor shortage, which is making it difficult to recruit enough staff.

This "has put pressure on wait times at the registers and the availability of associates on the shop floor," Saunders said.  

Saunders isn't expecting these long lines to put off customers any time soon.

"Consumers have a reasonable degree of tolerance for brands they like and are prepared to wait a while," he told Insider.

"I expect this will disappear at some point once the novelty of getting back to shopping in person dissipates and acceptance of pandemic restrictions lessens."

If you work in retail and have a story to share, please contact this reporter via encrypted messaging app Signal at +1 (646) 768-4716 using a non-work phone, by email to mhanbury@businessinsider.com using a non-work email, or Twitter DM at @MarySHanbury.

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France is investigating claims that Zara, Sketchers, and Uniqlo used forced Uyghur labor in China

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French prosecutors have on Friday, July 2 opened an investigation into alleged involvement in crimes against humanity based on accusations that global retailers, including Uniqlo and the makers of Skechers shoes and Zara clothes, rely on forced labor of minorities in China.

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French prosecutors have opened an investigation into alleged involvement in crimes against humanity based on claims that global retailers, including Uniqlo and the makers of Skechers shoes and Zara clothes, rely on forced labor of minorities in China's Xinjiang region.

The Chinese government on Friday reiterated denials of any forced labor in Xinjiang, and lashed out at what it called interference in its internal affairs.

The investigation was opened last month by the crimes against humanity unit of France's anti-terrorism prosecutor's office, a judicial official said Friday. The office has special universal jurisdiction to prosecute crimes beyond French borders.

The probe was based on a legal complaint filed in France earlier this year by a Uyghur worker in exile and three human rights groups: Sherpa, the Uyghur Institute of Europe and Ethics on the Label Collective.

The investigation doesn't name a suspected perpetrator, but is aimed at determining who might be at fault and face eventual charges of involvement in crimes against humanity, the judicial official said. Such a procedure is standard under French law. The official was not authorized to be publicly named.

The complaint names Japanese retailer Uniqlo, U.S. shoemaker Skechers, French company SMCP and Spanish retailer Inditex, owner of Zara. The rights groups say the companies are benefiting from a Chinese system of repression against Uyghur and other Muslim minorities in Xinjiang.

China has come under criticism and sanctions for detaining more than 1 million Uyghurs and and other Muslim minorities for political re-education in the northwestern region of Xinjiang, and for imprisoning or intimidating into silence those it sees as potential opponents from Tibet to Hong Kong.

Uniqlo said in a statement to The AP on Friday that it hadn't been formally notified of the investigation, but would cooperate fully with French authorities "to reaffirm there is no forced labor in our supply chains."

The company said none of its production partners are located in Xinjiang. "There has been no evidence of forced labor or any other human rights violation at any of our suppliers. If there is evidence, we will cease to do business with that supplier," it said.

Skechers said earlier this year that regular audits of its facilities in China have found no sign of forced labor.

Inditex says on its website that it takes "a zero-tolerance approach towards forced labor in any of its manifestations and we implement policies and procedures to ensure that this practice does not take place anywhere in our supply chain."

A Chinese foreign ministry spokesman, Wang Wenbin, said Friday: "We have repeatedly stressed that the so-called 'forced labor' in Xinjiang is a lie concocted by a small number of anti-China elements from the U.S. and a few other countries, with the aim of disrupting Xinjiang and containing China."

"We firmly oppose any external forces interfering in China's internal affairs through Xinjiang-related issues," he continued.

The human rights groups celebrated the French investigation and expressed hopes it will help shine a light on what is happening in Xinjiang.

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